The Truth About SPF: What You Really Need to Know About Sunscreen

If there’s one skincare question I hear more than any other, it’s about sunscreen (SPF). Some people never leave the house without it, while others only reach for it when heading to the beach or pool. But here’s the truth: whether you love the sun or not, the sun doesn’t always love you back.

As an esthetician with over 20 years of experience, I’ve seen firsthand how confusing sunscreen can be. Clients ask about white cast, sticky textures, breakouts, and whether sunscreen even works. The good news? Sunscreens have come a long way since the days of thick white zinc and overly fragrant coconut lotions. The challenge? Most people still don’t fully understand how sunscreen works, what the SPF number actually means, or why choosing the right formula matters.

Let’s break it down.

What Does SPF Really Mean?

Most people think the SPF number on the bottle tells you how “strong” the sunscreen is. That’s only partly true.

SPF actually measures how long you can stay in the sun before burning, compared to unprotected skin. The average person burns in about 10–20 minutes. Multiply that time by the SPF number, and you’ll get a rough idea of how long the sunscreen will last before you need to reapply.

  • SPF 15 = about 2.5 hours

  • SPF 30–50 = up to 4 hours (maximum effectiveness before it starts to break down from sweat, water, or exposure to air)

Here’s what most people don’t realize: all broad-spectrum sunscreens already protect against 93–99% of UV rays. The jump from SPF 15 to SPF 50 is smaller than you think. Instead of chasing the highest number, focus on consistency—reapplying every 2–4 hours.

Chemical Sunscreen vs. Physical Sunscreen

Chemical Sunscreens

  • How they work: Absorb UV rays, converting them into heat and releasing them from the skin.

  • Application tip: Must be applied 20–30 minutes before sun exposure.

  • Pros: Lightweight, no white cast, feels invisible on the skin.

  • Cons: Not ideal for sensitive skin (rosacea, eczema, melasma). Linked to hormone disruption, allergic reactions, and environmental damage. Some ingredients like oxybenzone are banned in reef-protected areas.

Physical (Mineral) Sunscreens

  • How they work: Use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to reflect UV rays like a mirror. Protection starts immediately after application.

  • Pros: Great for sensitive or acne-prone skin—hypoallergenic, anti-inflammatory, cooling, reef-safe, and non-hormone disrupting. Modern formulations use micronized zinc or tinted options to avoid the old-school white cast.

  • Cons: Can still feel heavier than chemical sunscreen, though much improved in recent years.

Which Sunscreen Is Best for Your Skin?

If you struggle with rosacea, melasma, pigmentation, or acne, mineral (physical) sunscreen is your best bet. Its naturally anti-inflammatory properties calm the skin while providing immediate broad-spectrum protection.

If you don’t have sensitive skin and want a lightweight feel, a chemical sunscreen might be more comfortable—but be mindful of the environmental and hormonal concerns.

Final Thoughts

Sunscreen isn’t just about preventing a sunburn—it’s your best defense against premature aging, sun damage, and skin cancer. The key is finding a formula you’ll actually wear every day.

For most people, I recommend a physical sunscreen with SPF 30–50. It gives you high-level protection, is safe for sensitive skin, and works immediately. Bonus: many tinted versions now double as a natural makeup alternative.

The bottom line? Sunscreen is self-care. Choose one you love, apply it daily, and reapply often. Your future skin will thank you.

Retinol, Retinal, Retin-A, Glycolic Acid, Tretinoin, Vitamin A…What’s All the Fuss About?

You’ve heard the buzz. Maybe your friend swears by it, maybe you’ve tried it yourself—or maybe you’re just wondering what all the hype is about. Retinol, Retin-A, glycolic acid, Vitamin A... it’s everywhere, from your social feed to over-the-counter shelves. But do you really know what it is, how it works, or if it’s right for your skin?

Let’s break it all down.

First Things First: What’s the Difference Between All These Terms?

At its core, Vitamin A and its derivatives are all about exfoliation. Exfoliating regularly is one of the top recommendations I make for at-home skincare. It helps treat acne, pigmentation, and signs of aging—but not all exfoliants are created equal.

There are many different forms of Vitamin A used in skincare. Here’s what you need to know:

Vitamin A

A fat-soluble vitamin essential for healthy vision, immunity, and cellular growth. In skincare, it’s valued for accelerating cell turnover, reducing clogged pores, and improving texture. It appears in many forms—like retinol, retinal, and tretinoin—to target acne, fine lines, and more.

Retin-A & Tretinoin

Retin-A is a brand name for tretinoin, a prescription-strength Vitamin A derivative. It’s often called the “gold standard” for anti-aging and acne, but it can come with side effects like dryness, flaking, and sun sensitivity.

If prescribed, start slow: one night a week, building up to two or three nights per week. This minimizes irritation while allowing your skin to adjust.

Retinoids

An umbrella term for Vitamin A derivatives—both prescription and over-the-counter. They include:

  • Adapalene (Differin) – great for acne, but can cause irritation.

  • Tretinoin/Retin-A – more potent, used for acne and aging.

  • Retinol and Retinal – gentler options, available OTC.

While dermatologists often prescribe these quickly, estheticians take a more personalized approach. We take the time to understand your skin and lifestyle, helping you choose and use the right products safely for the best results.

So What’s the Role of an Esthetician?

Dermatologists are amazing, and I always refer out when needed—but their time is limited. As an esthetician, I dig deeper into your skin health: your routine, diet, stress levels, and product usage. We create a personalized regimen that fits your goals and your budget, and guide you on how, when, and why to use each product.

Let’s Talk Glycolic Acid

One of my favorite exfoliants is Glycolic Acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. It’s small enough to penetrate deeply with minimal irritation, and it’s great for:

  • Smoothing texture

  • Fading pigmentation & sun damage

  • Boosting collagen for anti-aging

  • Preventing breakouts

  • Enhancing hydration

Recommended:
✨ Yon-Ka Glyconight – a gentle, effective overnight treatment that reveals brighter, smoother skin.

What About Retinol?

Retinol is a widely-used Vitamin A derivative that converts into retinoic acid within the skin. It’s less potent than prescription options, but also gentler and a great place to start.

Recommended:
✨ Epicuren Retinol Anti-Wrinkle Complex – ideal for beginners or those looking for gradual, visible improvements in skin tone and texture.

Retinal (Retinaldehyde): The Middle Ground

Retinal is one step closer to active retinoic acid than retinol—making it more potent and faster-acting, but potentially more sensitizing. It's about 11x stronger than retinol.

Recommended:
✨ Ilike Retinal Moisturizer & lIike Retinal Serum– plant-based, hydrating, and results-driven without the harsh side effects. Start with the moisturizer, then graduate to the serum for next-level results.

Important Reminder: SUNSCREEN!

All forms of Vitamin A increase sun sensitivity. Always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+, ideally zinc-based, 2–3 times per day. This is especially critical for anyone treating pigmentation.

Final Thoughts

Retinoids and exfoliants can transform your skin—but only when used wisely. If you're unsure where to start, let an esthetician guide you. Our goal? Healthier skin, fewer side effects, and real results.

Let’s build a plan that works for your skin—not against it.